There’s a saying in carpentry “You can never have too many clamps.” This is true until you need to store them. I’ve got a bunch of these cheap “F” clamps which make a messy pile. I knocked this holder together out of 3mm mdf. The slots are 5mm wide and go back 70mm.
As usual, I used the very handy “BoxMaker” extension for Inkscape, though I drew the slots in DesignSpark Mechanical. Note that the top layer (with slots) is doubled up with an extra layer to make it stronger. It might have been OK like that but I later added some simple braces. After that it was plenty strong enough.
Here it is attached to the wall. (It’s actually attached with a French Cleat so I can move it around if I want to).
And here it is fully populated. I screwed another piece of wood to the bottom of the back, a bit thicker than the cleat at the top, so the top now slopes towards the back by a few degrees.
Very quick. Very cheap.
This is my cheap 250mm (10″) tablesaw – a “Tooline TS250”. None to fancy, but it cuts ok.
Dust collection is a real problem in my shed so I’ve added some footings to it so I can carry it out to gravel driveway. Much better for my lungs, and the wide support makes it stable on the stones.
A close up of the very simple footing. Four pieces of 100×25 Oregon, bolted together, and the legs bolted to them. There were some rubber feet, but I got the positioning of the legs wrong and one wouldn’t fit so I left them off.
I glued a multibox to a side panel. It seemed like a good idea, but I haven’t used it yet.
I grabbed a chunk of mdf and glued some 25×25 strips of wood around the edges. The mdf had quite a curve in it, but fastening the strips to it sorted it out.
It’s just big enough to fit over the top of the tablesaw. Now I have another workspace, without having to worry about damaging the soft cast-aluminium table top.
One last fixup is visible here. The plastic coating (complete with the angle markings) is peeling off, less than a year after purchase.
So there is a magnet holding it down. (The body is plastic but there’s a screw under that point).
A final note for the safety-conscious, and those familiar with tablesaws. The riving knife is not removed for photographic clarity. It’s removed because it was so badly designed that I couldn’t get it to stay parallel with the blade and not bend over and catch the workpiece. The saw is actually safer without it.